General Notes on grapevine cultivation

Grapes are fairly tolerant to a wide range of soils, well-drained sandy loams being the optimum soil-type. Soil pH requirements vary according to cultivar with American varieties on the low end favoring 5.6-6.0 and V. Vinifera requiring a range of 6.5-7.0. Potassium and Nitrogen deficiencies can be remedied with Nitrogen compound addition of 50-80 lbs/acre annually, while Potassium is best applied at the rate of 250 lbs/acre before planting is commenced with later supplementary annual amounts of about 100 lbs/acre. Controllable "drip" irrigation installation is recommended for best results under arid region conditions.

Planting new vines

One to two-year old vines with suitable grafted rootstocks are recommended as relatively risk-free. Roots can reportedly be cut back to around 8-10 inches length if absolutely necessary although this action does seem to retard growth, during the first season, in some varieties planted in cool climate regions. Dig a hole about 10 inches deep and plant the vine, spreading roots apart on a small pile of soil so that the graft union will be 4 to 6 inches above ground level when the hole is back-filled. The scion is best restricted to 2 buds (when any danger of frost attack has passed). Point the 2-budded scion spur towards the support-stake or wire so the new shoots will grow as close to the support system as possible and will be easier to tie without bending and breaking. Backfill the planting hole and pack soil firmly as you go (not compressing the soil too much). Soil may have to be added later if it subsides too much after heavy rain. In drought-prone areas it is best to cover the entire new plant with soil, or other type of covering, for several weeks to prevent drying-out. Once growth has taken hold the soil is pulled away from the plant so that the graft-joint and buds/shoots are again correctly exposed above ground level.

If using own-rooted vines, all buds should be trimmed off except for the upper two (to prevent unwanted shoots coming up from the root zone). Plant as previously, making sure the two surviving buds are well above ground surface. Cover completely with a mound of dirt, removed later when the shoots push out of the mound and are well along. Make sure a hard crust does not form on the dirt mound that would stop new shoots from emerging.

Unpruned plant growth is usually allowed for the first two years in order to avoid stress with berries expected to make their appearance, in the 3rd year, after first use of the preferred style of winter vine-pruning.

Grapevines are sensitive to too much moisture so occasional testing with a soil moisture meter (available at most local nurseries) is a good investment.

 

 
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